Chipewa cha Toquilla kapena chipewa cha panama?

"Chipewa cha Panama"-yodziwika ndi mawonekedwe ozungulira, gulu lokhuthala, ndi udzu-kwa nthawi yaitali wakhala chikhalidwe cha mafashoni a chilimwe. Koma ngakhale kuti mutuwo umakondedwa chifukwa cha mapangidwe ake ogwira ntchito omwe amateteza ovala kudzuwa, zomwe ambiri mwa mafanizi ake sakudziwa kuti chipewacho sichinapangidwe ku Panama. Malinga ndi kunena kwa katswiri wa mbiri ya mafashoni Laura Beltrán-Rubio, masitayelowo anabadwira m’dera limene lerolino timawatcha kuti Ecuador, komanso Colombia, kumene amatchedwa“chipewa cha toquilla.”

Mawu akuti "chipewa cha Panama" adapangidwa mu 1906 Purezidenti Theodore Roosevelt atajambulidwa atavala sitayiloyi paulendo wake wopita kumalo omanga ngalande ya Panama. (Ogwira ntchitoyo ankavalanso chovala chamutu kuti adziteteze ku kutentha ndi dzuwa.)

Maonekedwe a kalembedwe kameneka kanayambira kalekale ku Spain isanayambe, pamene Amwenye a m’derali anayamba kugwiritsa ntchito njira zowomba nsalu pogwiritsa ntchito udzu wa toquilla, wopangidwa kuchokera ku mitengo ya kanjedza yomwe imamera m’mapiri a Andes, popanga madengu, nsalu, ndi zingwe. Panthawi ya atsamunda m'zaka za m'ma 1600, malinga ndi Beltrán-Rubio,“zipewa zinayambitsidwa ndi atsamunda a ku Ulaya…chimene chinabwera pambuyo pake chinali chosakanizidwa cha njira zoluka zoluka za miyambo ya anthu a ku Spain asanakhaleko ndi chovala chamutu chimene anthu a ku Ulaya ankavala.”

M’zaka za m’ma 1800, pamene mayiko ambiri a ku Latin America analandira ufulu wodzilamulira, chipewa chimenechi chinayamba kuvala ndipo chinayamba kupangidwa ku Colombia ndi ku Ecuador.“Ngakhale muzojambula ndi mamapu akale, mutha kuwona momwe amachitira'd kuwonetsera anthu ovala zipewa ndi amalonda akugulitsa,”akuti Beltrán-Rubio. Pofika zaka za m'ma 1900, Roosevelt atavala, msika waku North America udakhala wogula kwambiri“Zipewa za Panama”kunja kwa Latin America. Chipewacho chinkadziwika pamlingo waukulu ndipo chinakhala chopita kutchuthi komanso chilimwe, malinga ndi Beltrán-Rubio. Mu 2012, bungwe la UNESCO linalengeza kuti zipewa za toquilla ndizo "Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity."

Cuyana co-founder ndi CEO Karla Gallardo anakulira ku Ecuador, komwe chipewa chinali chofunikira kwambiri pamoyo watsiku ndi tsiku. Sizinali't mpaka atapita ku United States adamva za malingaliro olakwika akuti sitayeloyo idachokera ku Panama.“Ndinadabwa ndi momwe katundu angagulitsire m'njira yosalemekeza chiyambi chake ndi mbiri yake,”akuti Gallardo.“Pali kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa kumene mankhwala amapangidwira ndi kumene amachokera ndi zomwe makasitomala amadziwa za izo.”Kuti akonze izi, koyambirira kwa chaka chino, Gallardo ndi woyambitsa mnzake, Shilpa Shah, adayambitsa zokambirana.“Ichi Si Chipewa cha Panama”kampeni yowunikira magwero a kalembedwe.“Tikupita patsogolo ndi kampeniyi ndi cholinga chosintha dzina,”akuti Gallardo.

Kupitilira kampeni iyi, Gallardo ndi Shah agwira ntchito limodzi ndi amisiri amtundu waku Ecuador, omwe amenyera nkhondo kuti asunge luso la zipewa za udzu wa toquilla, ngakhale mavuto azachuma komanso chikhalidwe chawo adakakamiza ambiri kutseka mabizinesi awo. Kuyambira 2011, Gallardo adayendera tawuni ya Sisig, imodzi mwamidzi yakale kwambiri yoluka toquilla m'derali, yomwe mtunduwo wagwirizana nawo kuti apange zipewa zake.“Chipewa ichi'Zochokera ku Ecuador, ndipo izi zimapangitsa anthu aku Ecuador kukhala onyada, ndipo ziyenera kusungidwa,”akutero Gallardo, pozindikira ntchito yoluka kwambiri ya maola eyiti kumbuyo kwa chipewacho.

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