Chipewa cha Toquilla kapena chipewa cha Panama?

"Chipewa cha Panama"—yodziwika ndi mawonekedwe ozungulira, mkanda wokhuthala, ndi udzu—Kwa nthawi yaitali wakhala chinthu chofunika kwambiri pa mafashoni a chilimwe. Koma ngakhale kuti chipewachi chimakondedwa chifukwa cha kapangidwe kake kothandiza komwe kamateteza ovala ku dzuwa, chomwe ambiri mwa okonda ake sadziwa n'chakuti chipewachi sichinapangidwe ku Panama. Malinga ndi katswiri wa mbiri ya mafashoni Laura Beltrán-Rubio, kalembedwe kameneka kanabadwira m'chigawo chomwe masiku ano timachidziwa kuti Ecuador, komanso Colombia, komwe kamatchedwa“chipewa cha udzu wa toquilla."

Mawu akuti “chipewa cha Panama” anayamba kugwiritsidwa ntchito mu 1906 Pulezidenti Theodore Roosevelt atajambulidwa atavala kalembedwe kameneka paulendo wake wopita ku Panama Canal. (Antchito omwe anapatsidwa ntchito yomanga pulojekitiyi anavalanso chipewa cha mutu kuti adziteteze ku kutentha ndi dzuwa.)

Mizu ya kalembedwe kameneka inayambira nthawi ya a Hispanic asanayambe pamene anthu a m'deralo adapanga njira zolukira pogwiritsa ntchito udzu wa toquilla, wopangidwa kuchokera ku nthambi za kanjedza zomwe zimamera m'mapiri a Andes, kuti apange mabasiketi, nsalu, ndi zingwe. Malinga ndi Beltrán-Rubio, panthawi ya ulamuliro wa atsamunda m'zaka za m'ma 1600,“zipewazo zinayambitsidwa ndi atsamunda aku Europe...Chomwe chinatsatira chinali chosakanikirana ndi njira zolukira za chikhalidwe cha anthu a ku Spain asanayambe kugwiritsa ntchito nsalu komanso chovala chamutu chomwe anthu aku Europe ankavala."

M'zaka za m'ma 1800, pamene mayiko ambiri aku Latin America adapambana ufulu wawo wodzilamulira, chipewa ichi chinayamba kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ndipo chinapangidwa ku Colombia ndi Ecuador.“Ngakhale mu zojambula ndi mamapu a nthawi imeneyo, mutha kuwona momwe zimakhalira'd akuwonetsa anthu atavala zipewa ndi amalonda akuzigulitsa,"akutero Beltrán-Rubio. Pofika m'zaka za m'ma 1900, pamene Roosevelt ankavala, msika wa ku North America unakhala wogula kwambiri wa“Zipewa za ku Panama"kunja kwa Latin America. Chipewachi chinatchuka kwambiri ndipo chinakhala malo oti anthu azipitako patchuthi komanso nthawi yachilimwe, malinga ndi Beltrán-Rubio. Mu 2012, UNESCO inalengeza kuti zipewa za toquilla ndi “Cholowa Chachikhalidwe Chosaoneka cha Anthu.”

Woyambitsa Cuyana komanso CEO Karla Gallardo anakulira ku Ecuador, komwe chipewa chinali chofunika kwambiri pa moyo watsiku ndi tsiku.'Mpaka atapita ku United States, anaphunzira za lingaliro lolakwika lakuti kalembedwe kameneka kanachokera ku Panama.“Ndinadabwa kwambiri ndi momwe chinthu chingagulitsidwire m'njira yosalemekeza chiyambi chake ndi nkhani yake,"akutero Gallardo.“Pali kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa komwe chinthucho chimapangidwa ndi komwe chimachokera komanso zomwe makasitomala amadziwa za icho."Pofuna kukonza izi, koyambirira kwa chaka chino, Gallardo ndi mnzawo woyambitsa, Shilpa Shah, adayambitsa“Ichi Si Chipewa cha Panama"kampeni yowunikira chiyambi cha kalembedwe kameneka.“Tikupita patsogolo ndi kampeni imeneyo ndi cholinga chosintha dzina,"akutero Gallardo.

Kupitilira pa kampeni iyi, Gallardo ndi Shah agwira ntchito limodzi ndi amisiri achikhalidwe ku Ecuador, omwe alimbana kuti asunge luso la zipewa za udzu wa toquilla, ngakhale kuti mavuto azachuma komanso chikhalidwe cha anthu apangitsa kuti mabizinesi awo atsekedwe. Kuyambira mu 2011, Gallardo yapita ku tawuni ya Sisig, imodzi mwa madera akale kwambiri oluka toquilla m'derali, omwe kampaniyo yagwirizana nawo kuti apange zipewa zake.“Chipewa ichi'Chiyambi chake chili ku Ecuador, ndipo izi zimapangitsa anthu aku Ecuador kunyada, ndipo zimenezo ziyenera kusungidwa,"akutero Gallardo, ponena za ntchito yoluka chipewa yomwe imatenga maola asanu ndi atatu.

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